FIRST HAND

Kashmir has many beautiful places hidden up its sleeves. One finds here something new every time as one explores. Every place, meadow, valley, stream, mountain etc. has its won breathtaking beauty. And that’s what makes visitors come back again and again and stay there for sometime in their life. One such attractive place is Gurez (Gurais) Valley in north Kashmir’s Bandipora district close to LoC (Line of Control), some 123 kilometers from Srinagar. Located high in the Himalayas, this valley is not only a delight to the eyes with its picturesque landscape but is also more than what meets the eye. Natural beauty aside, the valley is a paradise under surveillance and with densely positioned military personnel and barracks it has more stories to tell.

After having toured too many popular destinations, my long awaited dream to visit Gurez materialized on 22nd September last year. Historically, valley of virgin beauty is part of Dardistan. The regular stretch over northern Pakistan, J&K and parts of north-eastern Afghanistan. The valley falls along the ancient silk route which connected Kashmir with Gilgit Baltistan. It served as a resting place for people traveling for trade and Hajj Pilgrimage.

Soon after leaving Bandipora town started our journey towards Gurez which Sir Walter Lawrence in 1985 has declared ‘the most beautiful scenery of Kashmir. Though the road was uphill, yet, the lush green forests didn’t make us realize how we reached Tragbal- first stop where all Gurez bound travelers stop for a cup of tea. I vividly rememeber, we had a cup of tea with omelet here. From Tragbal onwards, the curiosity to see Pir Gali (Pir Baba Shrine) and Razdan Pass is a priority of everyone. Though we didn’t stop at Pir Baba Shrine, yet, Razdan Top (3556 meters high) compelled us to stop for a while and get fascinated. The place fills everyone with a unique excitement and jubilation by standing on the top of the world with a chain of mountains up to the far end with herds of sheep grazing on them. The road stretch of Razdan mountain pass which was made with tiles in order to avoid any skid-off was quite a new experience for me.

Like every new-comer, we took photographs to be cherished as a memory. After Razdan Pass, the journey towards Gurez remains downward. Amid the company of lush green forest, we didn’t realize how our time has passed and we had reached at Kazulwun entry point. After making our entry here, we straight headed towards Izmarg-in the evening chill-where we had to stay for night. As I told you, Gurez is situated on LoC; one can easily see the pickets of Pakistan Army from there. The room where we had stayed had a Masjid very nearby. After having a cup of Kashmiri Noon-Chai with Kulcha, I accompanied by an acquaintance, straight headed towards this mosque to offer evening Namaz. Honestly, after prayers when I peeped out the window of the mosque, I saw the lights gleaming in Pakistan army pickets appearing very close from Izmarg.

On morning of 23rd September, we decided to see the Tarabal, the last Indian village, just 1 km from the LoC.  On our way back, we went to Batoor playground where an army organized cricket tournament was going on those days. This big playground where we spent half an hour or so, gave us a clear picture of LoC where pickets of both the armies are face to face. Frankly, it was really an amazing experience for all of us.

From Batoor we didn’t stop till we reached Dawar, the heart of Gurez Valley. This small town is on the bank of Kishan-Ganga river where one can avail facilities like accommodation, food outlets, and other tourist-friendly amenities. Dawar which unfolds unique excitement among the visitors is one region of Gurez and another is Tulail. And just outside the bustling market of Dawar, one can see the Habba Khatoon peak which everyone is curious about. Named after famous poetess Habba Khatoon (Zoon), the peak is a testament of her unfulfilled love. She was in an unhappy marriage and expressed her pain through poetry. It is believed that Yusuf Shah Chak,

then emperor of Kashmir, impressed with her beauty and intelligence married Habba Khatoon but was soon imprisoned by king Akbar. She was heart broken and wandered over the peaks in search of her beloved. From the foothill of this peak gushes out a spring of ice-cold water named after her as Habba Khatoon Chashma (spring).

What a wonderful experience was it from Dawar to Tulail? Amidst the cool breeze of murmuring water of emerald green K-G river and a mesmerizing view of picturesque valley to the clean shaved mountain peaks, verdant meadows, lovely pastures, etc. we stopped at a shop in Achoora, famous for selling Balck Cumin (Kala Zeera) which is the most fragrant cumin in the world.

Ahead of Achoora village, we stopped for a while to see the huge dam at K-G river which is visual treat for the onlookers in the valley. But no sooner we came down from the car than the security personnel blew whistles on us indicating to leave the premises. At around 10:40 am of 23rd of September, we reached Mastan Chopri where we saw a tea-cum-kiryana stall on the roadside. Looking at the Pakistan pickets which appeared very close, we all had a cup of tea there. Who knew that ahead of Mastan Chopri, road would be so dilapidated and rough? Though after this place we could view out the locals busy in their fields harvesting potatoes (famous in Gurez), yet, the dusty road stretch to Old Tulail was the worst experience at all. I recall, it was Friday and we had to reach Badugam to meet an acquaintance of ours. After Friday prayers, we had lunch with our friends who had put up their rooms in a Govt. school building where they taught as +2 lecturers. Then soon after finishing lunch we left Badugam and started our backward journey towards Izmarg again. I really can’t forget those days all my life. 

(The author is Rafiabad based Rising Kashmir columnist, teacher, freelancer and a recipient of National Peace Award. Email:  manzurakash@yahoo.co.in)